Variable Camshaft Timing Issue
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Thread: Variable Camshaft Timing Issue

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    Junior Member jlsteve12's Avatar
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    Variable Camshaft Timing Issue

    Hi All, I'm new to the forum and I have a fairly technical question, so please let me know if I'm not posting this request for help/info in the correct place. I have a 2013 Sport Ecoboost 3.5L. I have a recurring issue where my CEL comes on and I get a P0016 fault code, which indicates a camshaft position correlation error for the bank A sensor. When this happens, I can read my camshaft Pos Bank 1 and Camshaft Pos Bank 2 (using DashCommand) and they will be somewhere in the 8 to 11 deg range. When the fault is not present, they will be in the 0 to 1 deg range (at idle). I immediately suspect that the timing chain is jumping a tooth, as 8 deg or so is about equal to the tooth spacing. What puzzles me though is that when I clear the fault code, the cam pos will immediately change from 8 back to 1. How can clearing the fault code make the chain jump back to where it's supposed to be? Well, I certainly don't think that can happen, but my theory is that the timing has already jumped back before I clear the fault, but that the PCM somehow still retains the old readings until I clear the fault. This really doesn't make much sense either because, the readings appear to be live (as I rev the engine I get -37 to -38 deg.) Any ideas? I'm trying to figure out what to look at next (cam position sensors, replace timing chain, phasers, etc.). Oh, and the car does not seem to run any differently whether the CEL is on or not. No hesitation, no vibration no noise. I've had a Honda off a tooth before and it would barely run. Any advice would be appreciated (don't say trade it in ). Thanks! and sorry for such a long post.

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    Member ExplorerPIU2013's Avatar
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    IMO it would be the VVT solenoid/actuator.

    If it were the Bank A Sensor being bad, (P0016) it wouldn't detect
    a fault in the timing at all.

    At the point it is causing the CEL code it hasn't advanced/retarded
    the timing properly and as you suggested has an
    intermittent non-function that clears up by the time you
    reset the code.

    Jumping a tooth on the timing chain would cause a
    very incorrect valve timing and engine miss type of idle.

    A replacement is next, could it be the intake or exhaust ?

    One has a gray connector the other a black connector.
    Both cost around $26 - $35 each.

    I'm sure there is an electrical troubleshooting guide for
    diagnosing this part on the internet.

    Then again it could be as simple as a loose or
    intermittent connection at the VVT solenoid/actuator itself.

    Good luck on your repairs.



    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    Last edited by ExplorerPIU2013; 04-03-2018 at 05:39 AM.
    2013 Explorer Police Interceptor Utility 3.7L

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    Junior Member jlsteve12's Avatar
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    Thanks for the response. I had not even thought of the VVT solenoid/actuator, but it makes total sense. I'm going to pursue it. Will let you know what I find.
    ExplorerPIU2013 likes this.

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    Junior Member rjlipscomb's Avatar
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    What was the final outcome or resolution?

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

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    Junior Member jlsteve12's Avatar
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    Ford told me the chains had stretched enough to throw the timing off by about a degree (this from two different Ford dealerships). This was causing the computer to lose its mind, basically, which could explain why I got different timing readings whenever I would clear the fault. I ended up letting Ford replace the entire timing set, even though I wasn't completely convinced it needed to be done. I was in a crunch and had to get my car to pass emissions inspection. If it weren't for that I would've kept on driving it as is, since like I said, it ran just fine. Thanks for

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